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Bicycle Obsession

Goin' Crazy in 2009

  • Offroad Riding - 13002.72 miles [289]
  • Aborted Riding - 61.00 miles [3]
  • Turbo Trainer - 33.70 miles [3]
  • (TOC) 13063.72 miles
  • (TA) 13097.42 miles

Hurtin' in 2008

  • Offroad Riding - 10602.84 miles [300]
  • Turbo Trainer - 130.20 miles [8]
  • Running - 114.56 miles [24]
  • Aborted Riding - 37.20 miles [2]
  • (TOC) 10640.04 miles
  • (TR) 114.56 miles
  • (TA) 10884.8 miles

Riding in 2007

  • Offroad Riding - 8365.93 miles [300]
  • Road Riding - 3599.80 miles [70]
  • Turbo Trainer - 50.90 miles [3]
  • (TOC) 11965.73 miles
  • (TA) 12016.63 miles

This Week

Riding in 2006

Riding in 2005

Riding in 2004

My Bikes:

Current Gems

  • 2004 Pink Surly 1x1
  • 2000 Kona Kaboom
  • 2006 Santa Cruz Chameleon





Ladies in Waiting

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02 Mar 2009 at 12:10

I'm sure with the end cap done up tight and the pinch bolt done up bastard-tight, crank arms SHOULD NOT WOBBLE TO THE POINT THE END OF THE CRANK MOVES 9MM EACH WAY FROM CENTER...... WITH THE BOLTS DONE TIGHT... not at all loose.

Bag of crap, eh, they moved over 1mm along the axle, how is that even *possible?* my guess, they're fucked and shall be going in the bin this weekend.

Not a good ride, bike parts suck balls... MAKE THINGS PROPERLY YOU USELESS F*CKERS>

The People Comment: (24 responses)

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13:44 02 Mar

Is the axle moving within the crank itself - e.g. the bonding is loose?

Spline must be wrecked (somehow) - what cranks and BB is it?


13:53 02 Mar

HT 2
Non Drive Side.
End Cap - Tight
Pinch Bolts - Tight

ride: 30miles of waggling later:
End Cap - Tight,
Pinch bolts - Tight
Non Drive Side Crank 1mm from the end of the cups waggling like a dog's tail.

stupid design, by stupid people.

JUST PUT A BOLT ON THE END YOU COCKS. that's worked for the last 20 years.


19:22 02 Mar

Sounds like you didn't install the cranks properly initially (possibly axle not pushed all of the way through the bb) and you've damaged the splines so they will always come off now.


19:25 02 Mar

Nope they were fine on the Pipedream and the Surly.


19:27 02 Mar

By initially, I meant when you fitted them to *this* bike.

Who knows, you seem to break everything so it was probably just your awesome power!


19:29 02 Mar

well I hit the axle though with a hammer, then I tightened down the end plud until my fingers hurt.

didn't see a weird gap

maybe nothing moved and the axle just moved across, so it just needs moving back, but it does wobble, which is odd.

cranks silly, SLX coming tomorrow.


19:29 02 Mar

when I say Hammer I mean RUBBER mallet before you start ;)


19:34 02 Mar


BTW, the end cap only needs to be finger tight, not until your fingers hurt! You'll kill bearings in no time if you do it up really tight.


19:52 02 Mar

the park tool doesn't take much to make your fingers hurt, it's like a hurty torque wrench!


19:54 02 Mar

That's the whole idea. It's designed to stop you overtightening the bearings :)


20:09 02 Mar

but it's SO hurty! :(


20:14 02 Mar

Then you're doing it up far too tight!


20:41 02 Mar

And the pinch bolts aren't meant to be very tight either.

/shuffles feet/


09:21 03 Mar

"JUST PUT A BOLT ON THE END YOU COCKS. that's worked for the last 20 years."

I second that motion.


10:13 03 Mar

What I hear/read is the shimano ones aren't supposed to be done up tight (and tightened in tandem not crank one all the way to 10 then start on the other) but the ones that came with my pompino had to be tightened up all the way to 11 or they'd come loose. It looked like it had a more tapered design axle, dunno if that was why.

Bolt on the end? I thought we were trying to move away from high torque friction fit stuff? Besides with the current design you'd trash the bearings wouldn't you?


11:34 03 Mar

well you have a point about the bolt, but the axle would have a notch in it to stop the arm going too far, like Truvativ.

and raceface, I think... RF using same bearings/cups as HT2 which has put them higher up on my 'they might work' list.


13:07 03 Mar

I had the left crank go all wobbly on my Singlespeed. LX HTII crank, just checked the end bolt was "finger hurty" tight with the park plastic tool and did the pinch bolts up a bit tighter.

Without a torque wrench its very difficult to know how tight you are doing things up.

Meh. Do them up tighter Matt, whats the worstthat could happen?


15:45 03 Mar

I've been doing quite a lot of googling on this lately (mine are coming round to replacement time) RF used to use MAX bearings which lots of people say is v.bad. AFAIK they are upgrading them to phil wood bearings but dunno when that will be done and I assume it will be top models only.
I've taken the bearings out of some old cups but it's looking like replacing them won't be straight forward.


16:15 03 Mar

I was just planning to murder some raceface bearings and then move to Chris King.

RF cranks are bloody expensive though.. even @ tradeish.


16:16 03 Mar

I have a bearing replacement tool, the one from enduro seals, but never really used it as my bearings always explode on extraction!


16:39 03 Mar

On a related note:

I have had 2 diffrent failure modes with HT2 BB's.

Wobbly disintegration on the SS with Phil Wood EBB (obviously faced).

Seizing on the geard bike that hasn't been faced because "you don't need to".

I think the seizing doesn't take as long as disintegration. No data though.

The longest serving HT2 BB was one I canabalised from a shimano one and RaceFace one that both had one seized cup.



17:32 03 Mar

I've certainly had BB's seize up pretty quickly, and destroyed entirely in 800 mile or so.

I'm not including the cup that just pulled right out of the frame!


19:29 03 Mar

Raceface, Matt I destroyed a set of those bearings in three months on a bike that only gets used one day a week with gears for a five or six hour ride.

I don't think you'd get them fitted before they went bang...


19:55 03 Mar

I'm more interested in them fitting CK BB Cups, don't care about the RF BB, I'd just see that as v disposable.

we'll see how these SLX's get along, or if I can fix the LXs.

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